Hi, Frank Indiviglio here. I am zoologist and field researcher, formerly with the Bronx Zoo and now a consultant for That Fish Place/That Pet Place , the world’s largest pet store, and various zoos, aquariums and museums. I have several hundred articles on the care and natural history of invertebrates, fishes, amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals posted at That Reptile Blog and at That Avian Blog. I also write some of the articles posted at That Fish Blog. Your comments, questions and observations would be most appreciated.
Natural History
Classification
Family Iguanidae, Subfamily Polytrotinae
370 anole species, ranging throughout southern North America, Centraland South America and the Caribbean, have been described. The green anole is the only species native to the USA, but 8 other species have been introduced (please see below).
A New Subspecies in Florida
The green anole population in southwestern Florida has recently been designated as a distinct subspecies, the pale-throated green anole, A. c. seminolus.
Physical Description
Slenderly built with a long tail and reaching 6-7.5 inches in length; the color of each individual varies from tan and brown through pale to bright green.
Males are longer and stockier than females and have a thicker tail base and a larger, more colorful dewlap (throat fan). The dewlap of the male is pink to pale red in color (white or cream in A. c. seminolus), and is vestigial or absent in females.
Anoles clad in various shades of blue are sometimes available in the pet trade. Arising from a genetic mutation, they are quite striking.
Range
Southern North Carolina west to eastern Texas and southeastern Oklahoma and south to the Florida Keys; also Bahamas, Grand Cayman Islands, Anguilla and Cuba. There are disjunct populations in Mexico.
Green anoles have been introduced to and are now well-established in Belize, southern Japan and Hawaii.
Habitat
Woodland edges, pine-palmetto scrub, cypress swamps, overgrown fields, farms and gardens. Anoles are highly arboreal but will descend to the ground to feed.
Status in the Wild
Green anoles adapt well to some human disturbance and may even be drawn to gardens by high insect populations. They are, however, declining across parts of their range due to over-collection and to the effects of introduced Anolis species that occupy the same habitats and compete with (i.e. the brown anole) or prey upon (i.e. the knight anole) them.
Diet
Caterpillars, tree crickets, grasshoppers, flies, beetles, moths, ants, roaches, spiders and other invertebrates; they occasionally lap over-ripe fruit, nectar and sap.
Reproduction
The breeding season extends from April to September. Males are highly territorial and battle interlopers. The males’ courtship display consists of vigorous head-bobbing with continued extensions of the dewlap. The dewlap reflects ultraviolet light and is perceived by females as brilliantly-colored.
Males chase females about and grasp them behind the neck during copulation. The first eggs, 1-2 in number, are laid 2-4 weeks after mating occurs. They may be buried in soil, secreted below leaf litter or left on the surface, alongside a log or rock. Eggs may also be deposited in substrate that has accumulated among air plants or in tree knot holes above-ground.
Additional clutches of 1-2 eggs are laid throughout the breeding season, to a total of 8-10 eggs per female. The eggs hatch in 30-45 days.
Miscellaneous
Introduced Anoles in the USA
The green anole is the only anole native to the USA, but eight other species, originating as escaped or released pets, have established breeding populations in the southern half of the country. The most common and widespread is the brown anole, now found throughout Florida and in southern Georgia, Alabama, Louisiana, Texas and Hawaii. In many areas it is more commonly encountered than the green anole.
The knight, bark, large-headed, Hispaniolan, Cuban green, crested and Jamaican giant anoles are limited to the vicinity of Miami and Miami-Dade County as of this writing (March, 2009).
Pet Trade History
Green anoles were sold by the millions at carnivals, circuses and through the mail in the 1960’s and early 70’s. Termed “chameleons” due to their color changing abilities, most were fed inappropriate diets (i.e. “sugar water”) and expired in short order.
Color Change
Color change in the green anole has little to do with the background upon which the animal rests, although the colors it exhibits are usually cryptic in any event.
Cool or stressed anoles are brown in color, while warm, resting individuals are pale green and warm, active animals are bright green. Anoles involved in aggressive displays develop a black patch behind the eyes. Adaptations for Climbing
Green anoles are assisted in climbing by transverse lamellae on the bottoms of the toes and feet. These thin structures are divided by thousands of grooves, and provide excellent traction against tiny irregularities in the surface upon which the lizard is moving. Utilizing the lamellae, anoles can even grip dirt particles lodged on glass and hence climb window panes and aquarium sides easily.
Captive Husbandry
General
Green anoles do reasonably well in captivity but require careful attention to their diet. They are also quite sensitive to light, temperature and humidity levels, and prone to stress-related ailments. Please see my article on Green Anoles in Captivity for further information.
Enclosure and Physical Environment
Green anoles are highly arboreal and will prefer the higher reaches of their enclosure. Branches of various thicknesses and orientations should be provided, along with plentiful sight barriers in the form of suspended artificial or live plants.
If several females are kept, basking sites should be plentiful, as dominant animals will exclude others from these important areas. Males are intolerant of each other and will fight if housed together. Immature males are difficult to distinguish from females…be sure to watch smaller animals as they mature, and separate those that appear to be males.
Anoles do best in complex exhibits, especially those with live plants. Arboreal shelters, in the form of cork bark and hanging plants, should be provided. Shelters and sight barriers are important, as females will establish a dominance hierarchy. Subordinate animals may not feed or bask, even absent outright aggression, unless they are able to separate themselves from dominant individuals.
The cage substrate can be cypress, eucalyptus, pine, coconut husk and/or dead leaves.
Light
Green anoles rarely live for long if maintained without full spectrum lighting. If a florescent bulb is used, be sure that all animals can bask within 6-12 inches of it (horizontal and diagonal branches are preferred over vertical perches as basking sites). Anoles are completely diurnal and most active in bright sun…UVA and UVB light is essential if they are to thrive and reproduce. Please see my article on UVB Bulbs.
Heat
The ambient air temperature should be 84-87 F, with a basking spot of 92-95 F. Nighttime temperatures can dip into the mid-70’s.
Humidity
Green anoles prefer moderate to high humidity levels, but need to dry out as well. Twice daily misting should suffice, but be aware that incandescent bulbs may dry-out the terrarium quickly.
Feeding
Crickets
A “cricket only” diet, while convenient, should be avoided. I have found that a varied diet is vital for the long-term maintenance of these animals. Please see my article on Balanced Diets for Reptiles and Amphibians.
Be sure to feed only half-grown or smaller crickets, even to adult anoles, as they are prone to blockages when fed adult crickets. The crickets should themselves be well fed before being offered to the anoles. Please see my article on The Care and Feeding of Crickets for further information. Other Invertebrates
Small roaches, waxworms and mealworm beetles should also be provided. Anoles are often reluctant to come to the ground to feed, so provide these insects in a cup suspended among the branches (pinch off several legs of the roaches in order to keep them confined …being nocturnal, they will likely escape notice if released into the cage).
Only newly molted (white in color) mealworms should be fed to green anoles; these should be offered on an occasional basis, i.e. every 10-14 days.
Wild caught insects should be provided regularly. Anoles are particularly fond of moths, flies and small spiders, but will take many other invertebrates as well. Small silkworms and house fly cultures can be ordered from insect suppliers. Canned Insects and Nectar
Anoles acclimated to tong Cfeeding should be offered canned grasshoppers, silkworms and other available insects as a means of increasing dietary variety. Please see my article on Feeding Canned Insects to Reptiles for further information.
The following mixture, offered in cups suspended above-ground, should be offered weekly:
1/3 jar papaya, apricot or mixed fruit baby food. 1 teaspoon honey. ¼ teaspoon liquid bird vitamins or powdered reptile vitamins. water sufficient to achieve syrupy a consistency.
Feeding Schedule and Vitamin/Mineral Supplements
Green anoles have fairly high metabolisms and do best on small frequent feedings – every other day or three times each week is ideal. The food of adults should be sprinkled with a vitamin/mineral supplement once or twice weekly, that of growing animals at every other feeding.
Water
Anoles rarely drink water from bowls, although some individuals will if the water is kept in motion by an air stone. The enclosure should be misted twice daily so that the lizards can lap water from plants and branches.
Captive Longevity
Captive longevity approaches 9 years.
Handling
Green anoles are high strung and do not take well to handling. They are fast moving and make long, seemingly reckless leaps, so be careful when working in their terrarium. Let them see you opening the door slowly and give them time to move to safe, elevated locations. Most individuals will watch you closely and may take an opportunity to flee if you turn your back.
A small net is useful to have on hand. Green anoles shed their tails when grabbed forcibly.
Breeding
The Importance of Temperature Fluctuations
Captive breeding has occurred spontaneously, but is most consistently achieved when the animals are exposed to cyclic changes in temperature, light and humidity levels. The eggs are tiny and easy to miss - undetected eggs sometimes hatch within the terrarium, but are best removed once located.
Green anoles originated from the northern portions of the range require longer and cooler “winters” than do those from the south if they are to reproduce. In fact, southern range animals are different, physiologically, from those in the north. Experiments have shown that anoles living in south Florida are killed by the winter temperatures routinely tolerated by those living in north Florida. Most pet trade animals are from the more southerly portions of the range (usually central-south Florida).
Varying the Temperature, Humidity and Day/Night Cycle
Cooling off periods of 60 days or so may stimulate reproduction. Nighttime temperatures should be allowed to dip to 60-65 F for animals originating in the northern sections of the range, and 62-68 F for those from the south. Daytime temperatures can rise to 81-83 F. The daytime light cycle should gradually be reduced to 9-10 hours (cover the cage during the day if it is located in a well-lit room). Misting should be reduced to once daily.
The Eggs
Suspended, potted plants make ideal egg deposition sites. Eggs that are incubated in vermiculite (1:1 ratio of vermiculite: water by weight) at 82-86 F will hatch in 32-46 days. Please see my article on Incubating Reptile Eggs for further information.
Natural History
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