PLIGHT OF THE CAGED RABBIT
From Vickey Keshena
As a breeder of Standard Rex rabbits, and owner of K&H Rex
Rabbits (formerly, The Velveteen Rabbitry), I would like to
shed some light on the cage rabbit plight.
I often visit commercial breeding operations, and even
private breeders, whose rabbits are housed in 24 square
inch wire cages with a water bottle and feed hopper. This
is where these pitiful rabbits exist until they die at an
early age. Rabbits can easily live to be 10 years old with
proper care. Sadly, commercial rabbit breeders consider a
rabbit unproductive and "old" at the tender age of three!
The rabbit is often passed on by the age of four or five. I
wish to share the following information with you in hopes
of educating you on the plight of the caged rabbit.
Rabbits in their natural state are very inquisitive,
playful, and extremely active animals. They exist in large
groups and have a very distinct social structure. They
build elaborate den systems called warrens and very seldom
stray beyond their territory and warren.
It is very stressful for a rabbit in captivity, as their
social needs are almost never met. I would like to give
some guidelines that will make for a much healthier and
happier rabbit or group of rabbits.
I will use the Standard Rex rabbit as a guideline, as they
are my area of expertise. These rabbits range from 7.25 to
10 pounds, and are considered a "medium compact" breed. Rex
rabbitrys usually house Rex in a 24"x24" wire cage. This
has become the accepted norm and there is great danger in
it. I will list the reasons why:
1. A tiny cage does not offer room for exercise.
2. The rabbits inquisitive appetite is not being met
because there is no room for burying treats, scratching,
and exploring.
3. Tiny cages do not offer the rabbit separate and distinct
areas for eating, resting, and eliminating as their
innate instincts tell them to do.
My general recommendation is simply this: The larger the
cage the better! The absolute minimum I will house a medium
sized rabbit in is 36"x30"x18". The optimum cage size for a
medium sized rabbit is 52"x30"x18" (length, width, height).
A cage of this size allows the rabbit an exercise area, and
will allow you more options in customizing the cage for the
animal. It should be noted also, that with a cage this
deep, you will need large doors for ease in working in the
cage.
Next, I will address feeding issues. Common practice of the
modern rabbitry is to feed an alfalfa based pellet, water
and nothing else. Rabbits naturally dine on roots, shoots,
twigs, bark, green leaves, grass, clover, flower buds, and
other tasty morsels that happen by. By placing a rabbit on
a strict pellet diet, you are greatly inhibiting their
digestive function, and their curious mind. I always feed
fresh fruits and vegetables (apples, carrots, cabbage,
lettuce, cauliflower, etc.) at least 3 times per week. I
also feed oats and wheat as a regular part of the diet. Of
course a rabbit should always be provided a mineral block
and fresh water.
When choosing a rabbit pellet, always look for the highest
protein content you can find. Generally, a 17% protein
content is sufficient. Your pellets should be small and
very tightly and compactly formed. They should be very hard
and crisp. This will help wear teeth evenly and ensure less
waste.
Rabbits absolutely must be fed alfalfa or timothy hay on a
regular basis. Due to the makeup of a rabbit's intestinal
tract and colon, they need a high percentage of fiber or
roughage. I always feed hay as free choice, which allows
the rabbit to consume as much as it likes.
One particularly bothersome area I see in rabbit keepers is
the lack of a resting place. Cages are comprised of
galvanized metal and thus are very hard on delicate feet.
Rabbits would never naturally choose to "rest" on a sheet
of wire mesh. Thus, they should be provided a resting area
made of solid wood, canvas, or other suitable stable
material in the diameter of about 14"x14". In some of my
cages, I simply place a thick layer of hay on one end of
the cage. The rabbits enjoy digging and burrowing in the
hay, while their feet are being protected in the process.
A rabbit can develop what is called "sore hocks" if they do
not have an adequate resting area. The hocks become
swollen, inflamed, and often bleed. Sore hocks cannot be
treated in some cases due to deep tissue trauma. I was
shocked and appalled to read in a well known rabbit care
book that only rabbits with thick plush hair on the hocks
should be kept in the rabbitry. Rabbits that tend toward
thin delicate hocks should be euthanised. It makes far more
humane sense to simply provide relief from the unforgiving
wire. Remember to keep your rabbits nails clipped, as long
nails transfer pressure to the hocks. Long nails can also
become entangled in cage wire, causing severe damage to the
toe.
Rabbits thoroughly enjoy being turned out a couple of times
a week into a safe rabbit proof area. They love to run full
speed, jump, buck, and spring straight up into the air. Be
sure the enclosure is free from predators, electrical
wires, deep water, and poisons. Be sure the rabbit cannot
escape. Remember they can dig under if not watched closely!
I like to turn out rabbits once or twice a week for an hour
each time. This coupled with a larger cage will provide the
exercise desperately needed by cage rabbits.
Contrary to popular belief, rabbits can coexist quite
happily in the same cage. Does that have been introduced
slowly, or does that have been raised together make great
companions. Neutered males often get along perfectly with
other neutered males or even does, provided they were
neutered before the age of six months. Never place two
intact
males together or an intact male and a female. Both
will spell trouble! Rabbits enjoy their cages close
together so they can see each other and touch through the
wire. Be sure they do not fight through the wire, as injury
can occur. If a rabbit is diseased, it should be separated
to its own cage until proper diagnosis and treatment with
full recovery time has passed. A pregnant doe should always
have her own cage complete with
nesting material and a
nesting box. Sharing a cage during pregnancy causes undue
stress to the doe and can cause harm to the kits.
Finally, but certainly not least, a rabbit should be
provided with at least one toy. Rabbits love to bury
things, root, and throw toys around with their nose. A
small baby rattle is very suitable as it provides a firm
grip, makes lots of noise, and can easily be tossed. Just
be sure that your rabbit cannot become hurt on the toy. If
there is a loop on the toy, be sure your rabbit's head does
not fit through the hole, which could mean death.
Always be sure to observe your rabbit every single day.
Check for sores, cage damage, injuries, ear mites, broken
teeth or toenails, and general health. If you notice
anything out the ordinary, contact your veterinarian.
You can provide your rabbit with many years of healthy life
if you follow the guidelines listed above. Cage rabbits do
not have don't have to merely exist, they can thrive with
nurturing care!
By Vickey Keshena, ARBA & NRRC Member
