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02-26-2005, 10:02 PM
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Adolescent Pup
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Age: 35
Posts: 98
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I would have to disagree with the comment that Silkies are still undecided as a staple insect because of a high fat content according to the only breakdown of them nutritionally that I have seen myself (leaving out all the claims by the disributors of feeder silkworms that they are the preferred feeder. LoL. I realize they are out to make money...but even the ones that also sell crickets make this claim. And I have to agree with them... just mho).
There is a comparision to a cricket on the SilkiesToGo website and her source for the information can be found at:
http://www.silkworm-supplies.co.uk/nutri00.html
Their fat content is considerably lower than the crickets and I assume that mealies are the same, but never have checked very far into them since our Dragon impacts with them very easily.
The Silkies also have a much better Calcium to Phosphorus ratio.
Alot of people use waxworms and butterworms as treats and they are over 50% fat....much much worse than any silkie.
If you do decide on a reptile, please consider them and dont think they are primarily for dragons. I have seen the silkies advertised for many different insectivores besides the Dragons as well...many chameleon and gecko owners use them for the same reasons as the dragon owners...picky eater, disease carried by crickets, ease of care and lack of smell....etc etc.
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02-26-2005, 11:18 PM
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Salamander Potatomuffin
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Age: 18
Posts: 6,847
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__________________
~Stephanie
"We weep for a bird's cry, but not for a fish's blood. Blessed are those with a voice."
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02-26-2005, 11:22 PM
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Salamander Potatomuffin
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Age: 18
Posts: 6,847
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__________________
~Stephanie
"We weep for a bird's cry, but not for a fish's blood. Blessed are those with a voice."
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02-27-2005, 01:48 AM
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Adolescent Pup
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Age: 35
Posts: 98
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Crickets are usually fine for most reptiles, and honestly, I wouldnt see the harm in using them for variety. I tend not to just because of my own experience with an extended case of resistant coccidia that could -only- have come from the crickets themselves. Our dragon wasnt exposed to anything else that could have carried the bug to him. (We wont mention that I'm a bugaphobe and cant catch the little nasties myself...lol. The Silkies on the otherhand I have no problem handling what so ever. LoL)
And the non-adhesive shelf liner that me and Jeffreh mentioned is -very- economical and easy to clean....$5 a roll at WalMart. I have two pieces cut to fit the terrarium...when he messes one so that it needs more than 'spot cleaning', I simply switch them out and throw the dirtied one into the washing machine with a touch of bleach (enough to make it about a 10% bleach solution). I've stayed away from the reptile carpet because with this being our first reptile, I didnt want to risk his nails getting caught in the loops of the carpeting. Maybe a little over cautious, but until I am more comfortable with him, it seems best for us.
LoL...Now that I've given you more information than you asked for..I'll quit rambling.
I give you -big- kudos for reasearching first.....keep it up and keep asking questions.
I wish I had done more reasearch than I did before getting our guy...so many differing opinions and ways to do things. I could have saved myself lots of $$$$ in the end if I would have.
Good luck with whatever scaly friend you end up picking!!
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02-27-2005, 01:40 PM
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Salamander Potatomuffin
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Age: 18
Posts: 6,847
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__________________
~Stephanie
"We weep for a bird's cry, but not for a fish's blood. Blessed are those with a voice."
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02-27-2005, 10:03 PM
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Salamander Potatomuffin
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Age: 18
Posts: 6,847
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I know this is pretty unrelated...but has anyone here ever kept a treefrog? Although I was probably planning on getting a lizard I was also considering a treefrog. I'm weird, I know  .
__________________
~Stephanie
"We weep for a bird's cry, but not for a fish's blood. Blessed are those with a voice."
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02-28-2005, 08:14 PM
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Adolescent Pup
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ft. Meade, MD, USA
Age: 23
Posts: 78
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For your first herp I'd recommend the leo over the BD and I definately wouldn't recommend a CWD for a first herp. Leos will tolerate being handled, but generally prefer to be left alone, like most reptiles. The downside to the beardies is that they do need a large enclosure, they have a more complex diet as they eat plant matter as well as insects. WDs generally hate handling, need extremely large cages compared to the others (4'x6'x3') and have higher humidity requirements. The dpwnside to both the dragons is that they are diurnal. This means that one of their greatest requirements is proper UVB lighting. Leos don't need this.
Diurnal species need UVB lighting, but the UVA and full spectrums aren't even close to sufficient. UVB can't pass through glass, plastic, fine mesh, etc. A florescent UVB must be closer than 12 inches from the herp to be effective, must be replaced every 6 months or so, and can't produce sufficient heat. There are also different levels of UVB available, like 2.0, 5.0, 7.0 etc, and different species require different levels of UVB.
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02-28-2005, 08:59 PM
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Salamander Potatomuffin
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Age: 18
Posts: 6,847
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Quote: |
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Originally Posted by furryscaly
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For your first herp I'd recommend the leo over the BD and I definately wouldn't recommend a CWD for a first herp. Leos will tolerate being handled, but generally prefer to be left alone, like most reptiles. The downside to the beardies is that they do need a large enclosure, they have a more complex diet as they eat plant matter as well as insects. WDs generally hate handling, need extremely large cages compared to the others (4'x6'x3') and have higher humidity requirements. The dpwnside to both the dragons is that they are diurnal. This means that one of their greatest requirements is proper UVB lighting. Leos don't need this.
Diurnal species need UVB lighting, but the UVA and full spectrums aren't even close to sufficient. UVB can't pass through glass, plastic, fine mesh, etc. A florescent UVB must be closer than 12 inches from the herp to be effective, must be replaced every 6 months or so, and can't produce sufficient heat. There are also different levels of UVB available, like 2.0, 5.0, 7.0 etc, and different species require different levels of UVB.
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Thanks.  By the way, do you know anything about frogs? I can't find anyone who does =/.
__________________
~Stephanie
"We weep for a bird's cry, but not for a fish's blood. Blessed are those with a voice."
Last edited by Sasami; 02-28-2005 at 09:03 PM.
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