Common Red-Eared Slider Care
By Elfomatic
Scientific Name: Trachemys scripta elegans
Origin and Range: North America -- East of the Rockies.
Relative Size: Full grown, 12-16 inches in carapace (top of the shell) length. DON'T BELIEVE WHAT THE PET STORE TELLS YOU -- THIS IS NOT A SMALL TURTLE.
Average Lifespan: 20+ years; some individuals have been known to live over 40 years.
Description and Identification:
This is an aquatic species that is most easily identified by the red bands on the sides of its head -- hence its name. These bands are bright when the turtle is a hatchling but will fade darker with time.
The top half of the shell (carapace) is characterized by a greenish color that varies from light green to olive green. It is often covered with darker bands that will fade with age. The shell will also darken with age after about 1-2 years.
The bottom half of the shell (plastron) is usually yellow and characterized by a darker spot pattern. This pattern varies greatly in intensity.
Skin color is alternating bands of light green and dark olive.
History:
Red Eared Sliders are easily the most common turtle in the pet trade. However, many individuals invest in these turtles without properly checking on their care requirements. As a consequence, over 90% of Red-Eared Sliders die within the first year of their purchase.
In the wild, these turtles can commonly be found near ponds and rivers during the warm months. They spend much of their day hauled out on rocks and logs to warm and bask in the sun.
In the 1970's it was made illegal for any pet store to sell pet turtles unless their carapace length was over 4 inches. This was due to several incidents which involved young children placing small turtles in their mouths and contracting salmonella.
Today, this species is still quite prevalent in the pet trade industry.
Sexing:
This species cannot be sexed until they are somewhere between 2-4 years old. Males are characterized by longer, fatter tales and long fingernails which are used in their mating ritual. Males will also be smaller than females.
Housing:
Tank: A tank size of at least 20 gallons is required for hatchlings and small RES.
Larger turtles will need larger setups. It is recommended that you buy the biggest setup that you can afford at the time: you will save money in the long run by not having to upgrade every 6 months.
Larger turtles housed indoors are housed in large tanks (150 gallons or better), large Rubbermaid containers, and kiddy pools.
The best option for larger RES is an outdoor pond that is enclosed and protected from predators.
Water: Water temperature should be somewhere between 75-80 degrees. A submersible water heater can be used to attain this. Also invest in an underwater thermometer. Don't count on your underwater heater's temperature regulator to be accurate.
Water depth for hatchlings should never be more than double the length of their shell: they are not great swimmers and can, on occasion, drown.
For older turtles, it is generally accepted that the water should be deep enough so that the turtle should not be able stand on the bottom of its tank and reach the surface.
Basking Rock and Lamp: A basking rock is necessary. This area should be completely dry and underneath the basking lamp. This is important because your turtle needs to dry off completely to prevent bacterial and fungal infections.
Basking temperatures underneath the lamp should be between 80-85 degrees. Make sure there is enough variation between the water temperature and the basking temperature to promote them using the basking rock.
Other Equipment:
UVB: A UVB source is extremely important for your turtle. Without UVB, your turtle will develop
Metabolic Bone Disease because they won't be able to properly synthesize their vitamin D3 intake. A florescent UVB light or natural sunlight are your choices. Note that UVB lights tubes are only effective for 6 months to a year -- after that they may continue to put out light but the UVB wave will not be strong enough to help your turtle.
Filters: A filter should be used to improve water quality and cut down on maintenance and cleaning.
Even with a filter, 50% water changes should be done weekly. Filters may cut down on solid waste in the tank but it can do nothing for turtle urine. Water will still be dirty even if the filter makes it look clean.
Substrate: Substrate is optional but many choose to use it because RES enjoy sifting though it. Gravel should never be used because they tend to ingest it. Many people use aquarium rocks but river rocks from your local home improvement store are much cheaper.
Diet:
RES are omnivorous. In the wild, hatchling and younger RES are primarily carnivorous and become more herbivorous with age.
Turtle pellets are commonly the first thing that a new turtle owner turns to. However, pellets should make up no more than 25% of their diet.
Animal protein should make up another 25%. RES thrive off live feeder fish, earthworms and crickets (feed only from a pet store source to reduce the risk of pesticides and parasites), cooked chicken, and tuna. They also enjoy snails, which are a good source of calcium.
Plant Matter should make up the other 50% of their diet. Feed dark, broad-leafed plants such as collard, mustard, red leaf. Shredded carrots and sweet potato are good choices because they contain a lot of vitamin A. Squash and zucchini are good choices, as well. There are many safe aquarium plants that your RES will also like to chew on.
Supplements:
Calcium supplements should be used regularly. You can buy the little calcium turtles from your pet store or cuttlebone (commonly used for birds). Do not be shocked if your turtle bites off large chunks of it at a time. This will not harm it.
Health:
Signs of poor health include but are not limited to: apathy, swollen eyes, constant sleeping, floating, vomiting, decreased appetite, mucus coming from nose or mouth, white areas on shell (a sign of shell rot), softness in the shell, and excessive shedding.
Newly acquired turtles should always see a veterinarian to have an examination and a fecal sample performed. The veterinarian should check carefully for parasites. It is recommended that you only see a veterinarian that has experience with reptiles.
New turtles should also be kept in quarantine for at least a month prior to being introduced to other turtles. There are many diseases that are easily spread from reptile to reptile and newly acquired turtles may not display symptoms immediately.
Shell Rot is a common problem for pet aquatic turtles. It is characterized by white patches on the shell. It is caused by a bacterial and/or fungal infection due to poor husbandry habits. It is treated in its initial stages by increasing water changes and soaking the turtle twice daily in a weak betadine solution. Apply Neosporin afterwards and drydock your turtle for at least 2 hours. More advanced stages require the attention of a herp vet. Failure to seek treatment may risk the infection spreading internally.
Handling and Acclimation:
Remember that newly acquired turtles are often going to be extremely stressed after being introduced to a new home. It is not recommended that you handle your turtle within the first week of bringing it home.
At first, your turtle will probably be afraid of you if you approach its tank. It will take time for them to get used to you. Eventually, they will probably start to associate you with food and will bob up and down and beg for food when you approach.
It is okay for you to handle your turtle daily to keep it used to you. But handling excessively may cause your turtle to become overly stressed.
Breeding:
RES generally reach sexual maturity when they reach 5-7 inches in length or are 3 years old. Breeding season is generally between March and July.
RES engage in an elaborate courtship ritual that involves the male positioning himself directly in front of the female and caressing her face with his forenails. This can go on for over an hour and the majority of that time will be spent with the male trying to find the perfect position in front of the female. You may also see two young RES of the same sex practicing this if they have been housed together for a long time.
Female RES can lay between 3-4 clutches of eggs a year. Each clutch will contain about 20-25 eggs. She will probably become restless prior to laying her eggs.
In order to successfully breed your RES she will have to be provided with a dry area where she can dig a hole to lay her eggs in. Eggs usually hatch about 65-75 days after being laid. If it is late in the year they will winter in the nest.
Other:
Because of the risk of salmonella to both you and your turtle it is recommended that you wash your hands both before and after you handle your turtle.
Generally, turtles do not make good pets for children. Before buying a turtle for your child you should make sure they are old enough to learn the proper way to handle and carry the turtle and the proper way to wash their hands when around turtles.
Additionally, keep in mind that these animals can be a lifetime commitment when cared for properly. Children generally do not have the long-term interest level to maintain a pet for such an extended period of time. Also, the turtle may not fit into their life plans once they reach college age. So, do not get a turtle for a child unless you are fully prepared to take over responsibility for its care at any time.
They are two different species.
Swirly, Squashy, Squishy, Spot, Star, Slash and Rocky
Indy and Myfanwy 
Tilly, Emil, Sonny and Smudge
