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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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ich/velvet

Now i got another problem. My tank is now around average 78 degrees because its summer. (though it goes to about 75 at night) but now i got a velvet AND ich problem. can they both be treated with aquarium salt and ich meds?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 07:55 PM
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Oh dear, there must be an underlying cause. Fish don't end up with ich and velvet for no reason. So before deciding how to treat him (you had a single betta, right?), I'd figure out what's wrong. Get your water tested asap, I honestly think that this is because you have your betta in an uncycled 1-gallon--those tanks are VERY prone to water quality problems. I know you said you can't upgrade, but if there's ANY possible way to even upgrade to a 2 or 3-gallon try to do so. If money is the problem, look around on craigslist and freecycle. In fact, if you live anywhere near me, I'd be willing to give you a tank.

Ich can often be treated easily with water changes, increased temperatures, and salt. Velvet, however, is more serious and trickier to treat (you're sure that's what it is, right?). I would recommend a copper-based medication unless you plan to keep sensitive plants and/or invertebrates in that tank in the future (copper is great for treating certain fish diseases but kills invertebrates). CopperSafe should do a good job. If you can, increase the aeration in the tank with an air stone.

For the future, adding some hardy live plants like java ferns will help a bit with your water problems . Does the tank have a filter?

Good luck!




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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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i tested everything. ph at 7
and the nitrate.. i havn't tested

ich ive put in salt but the temperature thing, well im trying to get a bigger tank. ive got an airstone and i turn it on most of the day. i dont know if an underground filter counts as a filter.. cuz i dont think it does anything.. ive looked around walmart and other pet stores but i coudln't find any copper safe. Ive only found ich med that said it can cure velvet. velvet (yup i know what velvet is, gold on the gills/face ish (when it starts) clamped fins, and laying on bottom for a long time.

i do 25% water changes a day and full water changes every 4-5 days.

Edit: i was wondering if i shoudl take a picture for you too, to help me confirm the velvet. i cant really tell on my betta because it had a metalicy colour to it anyways.

also im planning to get a 2-3 gallon one in the next month after my exams. Thank you for helping me though =D

Last edited by NosferatuVa; 05-31-2009 at 09:59 PM.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 11:21 PM
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You tested nitrites too, right? I know that seems like a weird question, but I've seen people who only had test kits for ammonia and pH for some reason--when in fact nitrite spikes are more dangerous. Your nitrates are probably fine since you're doing regular water changes .

The undergravel filter is probably not doing anything but that's ok since you seem to be keeping up on water changes. It'll aerate the water, at least.

What's the name of the medication and what's in it? Like I said, a copper-based medication is your best bet.

Sure, you can post a picture. Is he scratching against things? It does sound like velvet based on your description, though.

I'm glad you're able to get a bigger tank . I keep bettas in 5 or 10-gallons and they really do well. It's sad to see the poor guys in tiny cups at pet stores.




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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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The Meds are called Nox-Ich
Active ingrediants: Sodium Chloride, Malichite Green 1.0%
Inert Ingrediants: 99.9%

Directions are: Sqeeze 1 drop per gallon into the aquarium for control of the parasitic disease ich and velvet. Use 3 consecutive days.

and Ich Guard by Jungle. Active ingrediants, victoria green, nitromersol.

I've read tons of pages on the internet about scractching on stuff but i dont really know the meaning of that. Does it mean like hitting itself on the glass and dashing around like spazzums? Sometimes it dashes but only when i accidently hit the table. It sometimes goes up and downthe tank nonstop.. but i cant tell if it is hitting the glass
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 11:51 PM
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Malichite Green is pretty good (although I've never used it for Velvet). If it doesn't work, maybe consider ordering CopperSafe online if you still can't find it. It really does work wonders and has saved rescue fish of mine .

If he was scratching against things, you'd know. They will literally rub against decorations in the tank. However, just because he isn't doing that doesn't mean he doesn't have it--it's just a common symptom for most parasites.




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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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How long should i use the Malichite Green one for? it says three consecutive days.. but if i under medicate could i use it unitl it actually visably goes away?
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NosferatuVa View Post
How long should i use the Malichite Green one for? it says three consecutive days.. but if i under medicate could i use it unitl it actually visably goes away?
If it says three days, I'd only use it for three days. If it doesn't work then try something else--I wouldn't use it for longer than it says.




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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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I got a new tank today. 2 gallons. i put in my heater, and it seems like the velvet/ich is gone but.. it still clamps it fins and sometimes lies on the floor. I think its just healing.. i hope im right
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NosferatuVa View Post
I got a new tank today. 2 gallons. i put in my heater, and it seems like the velvet/ich is gone but.. it still clamps it fins and sometimes lies on the floor. I think its just healing.. i hope im right
Since it's a new tank, you should test the water every day just to make sure that nothing is spiking--ammonia/nitrite/pH spikes could be causing him stress.




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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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my fish looks like its in bad shape..

it got paler, it still flares though. i had a betta a while back in a 2 gal tank and used the heater im using now, it looks like the same symptoms, but its so strange because my thermometer says its at 78 degrees..gonna get a nitrite and ammonia test kit during the weeknd, i have too many exams right now, im craming and fairly stressed. I know that is not a legit excuse, but im feeling really bad for my betta, but i cant help it atm.

its been lying at the bottom, the pectorial fin is a BIt clamped.. my betta still swims for air, but other than that, it seems normal.. it eats and spits out flakes but it still eats worms.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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seems like i cant edit my post... but my nitrite is at 0.

ph is at 7.

i really dont know what is wrong.

is it possible that my heater is possibly heating up the tank too much.. like too a point where it is cooking the fish although it is at 78 degrees?

or

would it be new tank syndrom? should i just elave the water in there for about a week and see what happens?

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NosferatuVa View Post
seems like i cant edit my post... but my nitrite is at 0.

ph is at 7.

i really dont know what is wrong.

is it possible that my heater is possibly heating up the tank too much.. like too a point where it is cooking the fish although it is at 78 degrees?

or

would it be new tank syndrom? should i just elave the water in there for about a week and see what happens?
You need to test the ammonia since that's the most likely thing to be out of whack in a new tank.

Are you going by the heater's thermometer or a separate one? You should always have an actual thermometer, don't go by what the heater says since they can malfunction. You don't need anything fancy, just get one of the $2 glass ones. Avoid the stick-on kinds.

"New tank syndrome" just refers to the cycling of a tank which involves ammonia and nitrite spikes. However, since you have a small aquarium it's better to instead NOT let it cycle and do 100% water changes weekly like you were doing with the 1-gallon (or so I assume). By changing all or most of the water, you're preventing the tank from cycling but also removing ammonia and nitrite before it can build up. While you could cycle the aquarium, I will warn you that anything under 5 gallons is difficult to keep cycled and prone to crashing or having spikes (which is far more dangerous to the fish then doing full water changes but having no cycling). That's why most people just do 100% water changes .

Since the tank is brand new and your betta is sick, I would actually be doing partial water changes at least every couple of days with a full water change every week/week and a half. You want to keep your water quality as perfect as possible so he can recover.




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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, ok thank you so much. i will buy the ammonia tests as soon as possible. Yup, im using the ones outside of the heater. Would it be okay if i continue using it?

Yeah, i think i will continue my usual routine of 25% water changes for three days then full water change and restart.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by NosferatuVa View Post
Oh, ok thank you so much. i will buy the ammonia tests as soon as possible. Yup, im using the ones outside of the heater. Would it be okay if i continue using it?

Yeah, i think i will continue my usual routine of 25% water changes for three days then full water change and restart.
If you can't get a test right away, you could always just bring in a water sample to a pet store and see if they'll test it for you . I'd keep using the heater, yeah, since it sounds like it's working just fine.




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