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#1 ·

Why Obedience Train? - Your Dog Will Thank You

It’s outstanding to have a self-assured dog as your companion. It reflects the job you have done creating independence and confidence in your pet. Your once tiny little clingy fluff-ball that followed you everywhere, was your shadow and always underfoot is now more interested in the great wide world around him. Curiously enticed by his surroundings and all the sights, smells and sounds, the world is now his to investigate.

It’s great to raise a confident dog, but it can’t be emphasized enough that refusing to obey your commands challenges your leadership and creates a power struggle that can lead to behavioral problems. It’s imperative that your dog obeys every command you teach, no exceptions. To accomplish this you must reinforce in the dog that no matter what distracting influences are present he must obey you instantly and with no hesitation. The focus when training your dog should be on building a solid bond based on mutual trust, love and respect between your pet and every member of your family. Your goal should be a dog that clearly understands what is expected of him and comfortably accepts his place in your household.

I’ve heard the phrase, “An obedient dog is a happy dog” and this statement is true on many levels. Training your dog should be fun for both you and your pup. It should also be a lifelong commitment because it’s natural for your dog to occasionally see an opportunity to vie for the dominant role and incorporating your commands into your daily routine will consistently reinforce your role as the leader.

Appeal to your dog’s will to please his master. You are more important than anything else going on around the dog. A natural respect evolves that can be called “voluntary submission”. This is the total acceptance of your position as Alpha, or Pack Leader. Our dogs are genetically wired to understand pack mentality and every dog big or small needs dominance adjustment and alpha image formation. Be his leader or he will be yours. Be aware of your dog’s personality and win every conflict. Never hit, slap, beat or choke your dog as this will create an insecure animal who will cower in fear, be scared and nervous. It’s also unthinkable and cruel to inflict pain on your dog. The problems caused can be irreversible. It is possible to firmly correct your dog during the teaching process using gentle but firm negative consequence and enthusiastic jubilant positive reinforcement. Tone of voice and body language are paramount. Dogs naturally respond to our body language and tone of voice. Keep your dog’s particular temperament in mind when choosing your method of correction. Some dogs are hard and require corrections that he’ll respond to while other dogs are soft and the same correction might be too much and defeat your intention. Know your dog. Remember, mutual respect, understanding, consistency and patience will reward you with a lifelong bond, an animal that is welcomed, loved and secure within your family structure and community.

If your dog is not bound for the show ring or obedience trials, technique doesn’t have to be very important. For instance, heeling doesn’t have to mean that the dog’s head is even with your left knee. Walking on a loose leash without pulling can be a very attainable goal. Think about what behaviors are important to you. Your neighbor may never allow his dogs to jump up onto the couch for a nap. Your sister insists her dogs are crated during family meal times. You may not mind your dogs snuggling on the couch with you and decide that teaching them to come up on the couch when invited is fine. You may want your dogs in a down-stay position or crated during family meals, or you may be fine with your dog sitting or laying down by your side while you are at the dinner table. It’s your dog, your family and you need to decide what rules are important, then teach and enforce them. Never give a command that you don’t enforce, follow through on and reward your dog for completing.

All dogs should know the basics that will make them welcome citizens and family members. Sit, down, stay, down/stay, come, wait, quiet, no jumping up on anyone or anything, no food stealing, no garbage ransacking, not chewing or destroying anything that isn’t his, not being possessive with food, toys or chew bones (or anything!), allowing hands in his bowl of food, accepting food from your hand, accepting handling of any part of his body for inspection, grooming and petting are things that not only make it easy for you to care for your dog, they keep him safe and in your control at all times. Obey leash laws and don’t let your dog roam. Don’t put your best friend at risk by allowing him to run free right into traffic, poisons or intentional harm by others. You may not mind the neighbor’s dog leaving presents on your lawn daily, but the guy down the street may find this totally irresponsible and disgusting. Holes dug in his landscaping and flower beds may find him on the empty side of patience and he may take matters into his own hands. You might end up in court or worse, your dog might end up dead. It only takes one loose dog in the street and one car to cause great loss and a lot of heartache. Keep your dog confined to your property at all times. This can mean a physical fence, invisible fencing, a dog run or a safe tie-out. It’s not cruel to keep your dog tied out if he’s supervised, can’t get tangled or strangled and he’s not left out alone for unlimited hours a day with no access to water, shade and access to protection from the elements. They don’t need to roam free to be happy dogs. They need you to provide safety, love, structure, nutrition, shelter, supervision and leadership. A controlled dog knows his place. His place is a guided safe place.

It sounds like a daunting task! It’s not. These things can and should be part of your daily interactions and routines. Make it fun, make it exciting and make it a priority. I always start my training sessions with a verbal cue, “Let’s Go Work!”. I say it in an upbeat tone of voice and my excitement rolls right into the dogs and they get excited. They learn quickly that “Let’s Go Work!” means it’s time to have a purpose, please me, get lots of love and attention, and they are very proud because they always succeed. It makes them confident and content. It also gives them a constructive outlet for pent up energy and a tired dog is a good dog! It cements the bond between us and reinforces my position as leader. I aim for two 20 minute sessions a day. If they are focused and interested I don’t watch the clock. If it’s a day that they aren’t focused or seem disinterested I won’t introduce new commands. Instead I’ll reinforce easy ones and always let them succeed. I may end the session early. I may work them in the house. Vary your routine, keep it interesting but be consistent. Always end your training sessions on a positive note with the dog performing a task successfully. Always lavish enthusiastic physical and verbal praise. I always end training sessions with a verbal cue, “You’re Through!” or “You’re Free!!” and I wave my arms away from my body in a playful manor. I then always engage them in free play. I take out a favorite ball or toy and we play fetch and just happily goof around for a little while. I may toss a rope bone for them to run around with and shake in their mouths or sometimes they’ll play for a few minutes and then come to me for lots of physical touching, tongue and tail wagging, affection and a big drink of water. It’s a great way to get them used to training as routine and lots of fun. It’s something they get used to and look forward to.

Remember, dogs want to please us. They need to know exactly what it is we expect of them. They also need to rely on us for everything including fun and play! Again, be consistent. Be positive and upbeat. Be in charge. Be your dog’s universe. Be your dog’s best friend and playmate. Be a good leader!

When beginning any training always keep your dog on a leash. I prefer a six foot lead attached to a standard nylon snap release collar. Basic beginning commands can be easily taught to most dogs using this type of standard equipment. Corrections will be inevitable and can be applied using this type of collar and lead. You’ll work up to commands that will require a longer lead. Never work your dog off lead until you are certain he’s 100% reliable. Don’t give him the opportunity to fail miserably, it’s confusing to the dog and totally frustrating for you. Don’t be discouraged if you need to back up and repeat lessons. They can hit a wall and your patience and perseverance will pay off for you both. You may decide to investigate other avenues of humane correction. Choke collars when worn and used properly do not choke! The correction is a quick snap meant to get the dog’s attention. Please learn the proper way to use this chain collar before you put it on your dog. Electronic Collars deliver an unpleasant sensation, again, to get the dog’s attention and get him to comply. Never leave any type of correction collar on your dog outside of controlled training sessions! Positive reinforcement after any negative correction is monumental to your dog’s success, and your success as the leader and teacher. Investigate all avenues before resorting to a choke chain (or pronged) collar or e-collar and be properly trained in their applications. They do have their place in correcting certain behaviors.

Consult with a professional if you aren’t clear about methods, equipment, corrections, rewards or where to start. Your dog needs you to be confident.

Most of all, make it fun, have fun and enjoy watching your dog blossom into an obedient, trustworthy, proud and confident loving companion. It’s a rewarding and gratifying endeavor! It’s the most valuable gift you can ever give your dog.


By Linda Vanator
Copyright 2003
 
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#3 ·
Thank you Capn'! I'm going to keep going with them, starting on working with the basic commands and getting into behaviorial issues, problem solving....
it's fun! If you can think of anything you think might be interesting let me know- I'll do my best and keep on writing :)
 
#4 ·
What about getting prepared to bring a puppy home? things to get ready beforehand and what a puppy needs at first attention wise? Is that too specific? i feel like you are my doggy tutor! You are named Linda? you wrote that? Wow...I am so impressed! Very professional and easy to understand!
 
#6 ·
Jade, when I was getting ready to post or submit this I wasn't sure where to stick it - (though I was wondering just where I was going to be told to ummm stick it :lol: ) I'll submit to the featured article section. I feel kind of dumb 'cause umm....how do I do that? I've just gotten back in to writing... once I get going you are going to want to shove a sock in my mouth :lol:

Capn' that's a great place to start! Thanks! That really is the true beginning...
:yes: That's my real name :geek: :D I'm so glad you enjoyed reading it. Thank you so much :hugg2:
 
#7 ·
I typed this whole big reply and then lost it! (I am on huge time restrictions today due to the scrapbooking nazi!)

I liked that you yell the same command before training everytime, "Let's go work" because by now even the cats know basic phrases "It's time for snugging" peep will jump right onto the kitchen counter, "let's go watch football" and Baby girl races off to the Steeler room, "Who wants a treat" brings the cats from anywhere in the house.

Now that lead thing, how does that work? i tie a six foot something between me and the dog, and then drag him all over the house with me? What if he is tired? Oh if I want to teach him how o hit the bell, we should do that from day one every time taking the dog outside right?
 
#8 ·
Capn', the lead thing is a method some people use called "Tethering". It is a leash clipped to your belt so that the dog follows you wherever you go, allows him to be in every room under your watchful eye, and makes it easy for you to pick up on cues that he has to go outside to potty. I've never used this method consistantly, I've tried it out just to see how it would work. It does! I just use other methods because they just work well for me.
Some people love it though. I think it has to be a personal decision on what methods you want to use to train- you know, what you feel comfortable with and what feels right to you.
I train and walk them on a 6 foot leash though.
When you have a small puppy I like to put his collar on right away and get him used to it. When they're so young they rarely even notice it and accept it totally within hours. I get them used to a leash by just attaching a shorter, light leash (6 feet is kind of long for a pup to be dragging around) to the collar and just let him drag it around, just letting him get used to it's existance. They'll play with it or bite on it... but they get used to it and it eliminates the leash struggles because it's not something they will view as scary or restrictive - it's just normal for them. Plus... if they are dragging a short leash around and get into something or are doing anything you don't want them to it's easy to just step on the leash (mine used to run really fast lol!) or pick it up and redirect them.
The bell on the door is great, and it's fun and cute too when they start to paw at it and you know they are *getting* what it means! You can start the jingle bells from day one. Just make sure they are big strong safe ones... I like the kind they sell around Christmas time... big huge ones attached to a strap of leather, meant to put on the door- you'll have to lower it with some strong rope or string so that he can paw or nose it when he's tiny. You just sit him in front of the door , raise his paw and jingle the bells, then take him out. They learn quick that ringing those bells means going outside. Dogs are smart. Smarter than I am most of the time :)
 
#10 ·
What Deja what a great article! So much information and easy to read.

I have one question...Can you teach an old dog new behavior? I have Cookie whoo is 6 years old and does not know any of the basics. She is smart and I don't think she was ever taught anything by her previous owners. Well I guess I know she wasn't. Any hope for her?
 
#11 ·
Laurie, absolutely! Whoever said that old phrase about not teaching old dogs..... ??? They were so wrong. I believe the same techniques can work on any age dog. Get them excited about the process, make it fun, be consistant.
I'm teaching my old dog right now - a few new tricks :)
All dogs perform the behaviors we desire of them naturally. They sit, lay, etc... sometimes it's just catching your pup or dog in the act (so to speak) and rewarding them - they won't be clueless about what you are so excited about for long!
 
#13 ·
what a great thread!!! we have a battery operated door bell and have just started working Audrey and Greta with it. We've mounted it about 18" off the floor by the back door. They havent grasped the idea yet .... but it WILL work. They will do it on command but i am hoping they will do it when they want to go outside. Who knows maybe even the kitty will pick it up too.
 
#15 ·
You mention using a leash, but is there anyway around that? I say this because I want to retrain some things to my 8 year old (almost) chihuahua. However, when I get the leash she thinks we are going for a walk, and I don't want to get her "hopes down".
 
#58 ·
There is

'

Hopefully, there are ways of training your dog without using leash. Dogs are smarter than we think they are. There is this time when I went to the mall and saw a cute pom with her owner walking happily and peacefully around the place. And guess what, the pom doesn't even have a leash! :):giggle:
 
#16 ·
There are always modifications that can be made based on the temperament of the dog and what you are trying to accomplish :)


What behaviors are you trying to retrain or reinforce with your Chihuahua?

I'm sure if she is used to getting walked when she sees the leash she's getting excited to go out when you take it out! Dogs really can be such creatures of habit but those habits can be modified, replaced or even eliminated.

I know sometimes it feels like we are "letting them down" or dissappointing them ... I believe that dogs do have "feelings" but keep in mind that they are not the same as ours. We all tend to impose the way *we* would feel, or interperate a sad look or other facial or body language for "people feelings", but that isn't always the case. Dogs can be distracted and rituals can be broken without us having to feel like we are hurting our dog's feelings.

My Brittany Max is an Upland Game Dog who works actively and consistantly in the field with my husband. I trained him and turned the reigns over to my husband. It was a little difficult at first in the field because Max was used to my giving him commands and directions. I realized that I had to leave them alone in the field and hope that my training had really stuck! He is an awesome performer in the field and he's only one year old.

Whenever my husband takes out the field bag or takes his gun out to clean Max goes bonkers with excitement thinking he's going out to "find birds" :lol: He's even ran to the car and sat there whining waiting to be let in! Of course that isn't always the case. Some petting and "Good Boy Max" is really all he needs. Confirmation that he recognizes his *job* even if he doesn't always get to follow through and get his reward in the field when his excitement is triggered at home.

I'd be happy to help you with some suggestions! Most often there's an easy solution that will make you both feel good about the change in your normal routine :)
 
#17 ·
Thank you for your quick and kind response! Anyway, I want to basically retrain her the basics. How to sit, stay, come, and to an extent fetch. She is really protective of her toys, so if she is playing them and I come around she growls at me basically telling me to get away. :(
 
#18 ·
I am also trying to retrain her with going the bathroom. She seems to have taken up the habit of going certain places in our house, and it is beginning to stink to the point where we are shampooing (sp?) our carpets often. :(
 
#19 ·

Combs, I believe I understand the position you are finding yourself in with your Chi! There are other Chi owners on this board who can jump in here and tell you that this little breed can be quite a fiesty little handful!! :lol:

If she is possessive with her toys, food - whatever - I firmly believe the first step you must take is *taking back control*. YOU need to be her leader at all times.
SHE needs to be reshaped to know that everything is YOURS and you can take it from her mouth at any time (thus reinforcing that you are the leader and she is below you in the "pack order") without her making a sound or resisting in any way.

Are you her first owner? This information will give us some direction.

I would choose reshaping behavior in order of priority. Dog behavior is formed in layers. Sometimes it can be liken to peeling the skin from an onion and getting to the root of what we want. (corny metaphor but it was what popped into my head).

For me, the first step would be gaining back my alpha/leader status. If you know her temperament and can anticipate her reactions this is a good place to start.

I would collect all her toys and start with making her "SIT" before she gets anything. Doing this without a lot of fuss and drama as if this is just the way it is will reduce her stress level as you gain her confidence and control over her universe. Making her "SIT" before getting anything, even her food, treats and before you open the door to take her for a walk will start letting her know that YOU are the boss. You are peeling off some crusty layers and forming desirable ones in which to proceed and build on.

Offer her a toy and command her to "SIT" praise her lavishly and enthusiastically. If she tries to snatch the toy possessively, STAND straight in front of her and give her a loud sharp, firm "NO!" Repeat. When she has the toy (because she is sitting and didn't snap or snarl at you - she's starting to understand what you want!) , start making a game out of the next step. This all can be done in the context of fun and not stress.

If she runs and isn't used to be commanded to "Stay", let her. Let her have her run around, but keep your eye on her. When she stops and lays down with the toy, walk up to her, stand tall and make sure the look on your face is not threatening - just neutural - tell her "MINE" and "GIVE" reach down and take the toy from her. If she growls, a louder "NO!". Remember, you are larger and even though many toy breeds will take on a much larger, even aggressive dog - Bigger and BIG body language will often set the tone for her to submit. YOU do need to be firm and get control of this. The end result should be that you can reach into her food bowl, take her food, toys and anything else she has in her mouth away from her. I consider this particular issue a safety issue too. If one of my dogs happen to put something dangerous into their mouth and start playing or chewing on it, I need to know I can tell them, "MINE!" "GIVE" and they will open their mouth, drop the item or let me take it directly from their mouth and examine their teeth to see if anything harmful is still in there.

I would break the issues you have into prioritized chunks. If there are several behaviors you want to modify, one thing at a time is best. Working on too much at once only causes confusion on the part of the dog.

You want to set the foundation for a trust based relationship with you as the leader. Once she has fully accepted you as the center of her universe and the leader of her world the other behaviors should fall into place with very little struggle, just lots of repetition and loving firm guidance.

Remember - dogs learn in layers and dog behavior is often "trigger" based. These patterns and layers can sometimes take some time to modify, but it can be done! Be positive and know that you have a support system and a place to ask questions.

Ack! I've blathered on enough for this post :D

Good Luck!

What is your dog's name btw?
 
#20 ·
I don't know why but I've noticed that it can be harder to housebreak a chihuahua than other breeds. I think because chihuahuas are smaller and their messes aren't quite such a "big deal" you might be inclined not to develop a pattern of training with them. For instance -- you see a dropping on the floor and just clean it up rather than verbally scolding the dog every time ... or doing whatever you do to housebreak. Consistancy is important.

Also, when they sneak off -- which they often do -- to do their business inside you may not notice it immediately because it is so small it may not stink where you are in the house. It is hard to teach a dog that what they are doing is bad when it is after the fact that you find the accident.

LOL, another problem might be that Chihuahuas tend to be naturally sneaky. :) You can get them to KNOW that doing their business inside is wrong ... but they are smart enough to know that they can easily sneak off and that is A LOT easier than going outside. It is at this level in training that a lot of chi owners get stuck.

Mine thinks she is the princess. About once a year she gets it in her head that she is above stepping outside on the yucky dirt and will go through about a week of being UNhousebroken. I can take her outside often and everything but unless I stand there and physically WATCH her go to the bathroom she will sneak back on the porch without doing anything. She KNOWS that what she is doing is sneaky and wrong but she does it anyway. It is battle between me and her.

You just have to be consistant and let them know that this behavior is unacceptable -- even if this leaves you standing outside in the dead of winter for 15 minutes waiting for your chi to do its business. :)
 
#21 ·
I believe it's so, so important for us to remember that our dogs don't have the capacity to think in complex thought processes.

What appears as "sneaky" or deceptive, behavior patterns is really something quite different.

In a dog's mind there is "right now". Is it possible that when she is standing on that porch and it's pouring rain her "denning" instinct is telling her to seek shelter?Relieving body functions take lesser priority.

Elf you are 100% correct in saying that your presense there, even in a downpour or driving snow, will direct the dog's thought process to what you are expecting from them. Without you there they naturally resort to their instictual patterning.

Your first paragraph was also really true! It's true for me, I'm raising my first Toy Breed (Remy, Yorkie - 6 mos and 3 pounds) and I have found myself doing what you described! It didn't take me long to realize and smack myself around a little :lol: :rolleyes:

Tiny dogs sometimes need more consistant and persistant regiments than larger breeds. OUR psychological response to a larger pup is different.

At 6 months old my Brittany was being field trained, remaining in his crate longer and more independent overall than my little Yorkie.

I'm realizing that I need to be as firm with Remy (firmness is always based on the temperament) as I was on my Golden or my Brittany or on other medium or large breeds that I have trained.


I think your input is great - you really hit the nail on the head!! :)
 
#22 · (Edited)
LOL .... you obviously don't know my dog. She's a class act.

Believe me ... it isn't just the winter time she does this. It can be in the middle of summer on a beautiful day .. 70 degrees ... there is no pattern. Most days she is good ... some she isn't. .. the winter is just when I find it particularly annoying because I have to stand out in the cold. She is incredibly smart ... my other Chihuahua and Shih-tzu are nothing like her. None of them like going out in the cold or rain but Ethel has always been different She is the princess ... that is not a loose term ... that is how she views herself.

You know those stuck up dogs in the movies that sit on pillows and eat only gourmet food? That is her! She knocks over the pillows on the couch to perch on them. She doesn't eat dog food if someone is watching. I've had to sneak into the kitchen to watch her eat dog food. If she sees me? She stops. And it isn't like she is nervous about eating in front of me .. she eats anything else readily. She eats human food with no problem but she is very picky about that too. If Ethel is entirely primative and live only in the moment then Ethel wouldn't boycott dog food and be picky about the human food she eats if she knows there is a choice. Yes, a choice. She will gobble up Ritz crackers if she knows that is all you have. But if you have Ritz crackers with cheese then she will never take a plain Ritz cracker even if that is all you will offer. For real. I've even done an Ethel-experiment with that. I pulled out only Ritz and she ate the plain cracker. I pulled out the cheese and offered her only the plain cracker and she wouldn't take it. I hid the cheese and about 2 minutes later offered her a plain Ritz and she took it. I pulled out the cheese again and offered her a plain .. no go ... then a cheese ... yes ...plain again ...no.. put away the cheese ... left out the Ritz ... waited a minute ... she ate the plain when it was offered. Stuff like that. I'm not saying this is complex reasoning ... but it isn't something that every dog out there is going to do. Every single other dog I have owned would have eaten whatever cracker was thrown. Because they did live for the "right now" ... their instincts told them to eat. Ethel's tell her to "eat WELL" LOL

And she will be sneaky ... yes, sneaky ... to avoid going outside when she is not in the mood -- usually after she has been woken up to go out after being in bed. She only sleeps under the covers, BTW This is mostly true with droppings when she does go through these phases. She'll pee outside without any problem whatsoever even in the rain and cold and then stand there and wait for everyone else to finish up (another 5 min.) but come inside and wait until I've settled down somewhere and then sneak away (she's always next to me) to do her business someplace. If it wasn't sneakiness she wouldn't go to places like ... the guest bedroom on the side of the bed that is not near the doorway ... or the game room way in the back ... or even behind the couch. I'm not saying she has complex emotions or thoughts attached to it. But she does know the difference between right and wrong and between going in highly traffiked areas of the house and areas that we are never in. If she lived in the moment she wouldn't go all the way across the house. She'd go into the next room like my other dogs. My Shih-Tzu and other Chi can't make that distinction. They rarely mess up but when they do it is, yes, in a different room from us but it isn't "hidden" so to speak. She doesn't get spanked or beaten ... so she has no reason to be scared. For a dog ... I'd say that was sneaky ... even if it isn't on the same level of thinking as a human .... I fully believe she is aware of what she is doing.


I agree that most dogs have basic reasonings for their behavior ... I mean, I've owned a lot of dogs and what you are saying is true. But after owning Ethel? I think some can break the mold. I fully believe in their capacity to be sneaky.
 
#23 ·
Thank you so much for all of your help, both of you! I really do appreciate this! In a way I'm the dog's first owner. My great grandma is the primary care taker of her, but since she is on vacation, I thought this would be a good time to start. Her name is Sarah, BTW. :)
 
#25 ·
I'm here for you if you need any advice or suggestions :) Please feel free to start a new thread in this section with your questions or comments. We all share a lot of common issues!

With a little thought and putting our heads together to come up with a plan or solution we can usually do a lot of good for our dogs - and ourselves :)
 
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